Installation for SPIKE
2 Flamin' Frames
Speaker Light Kits (Type 14)
PLEASE READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS. They are set up with the power connection
first. Then some general tips for these light kits. Followed by the instructions for installing the
light frames and finally the various electronic connections.
IMPORTANT! These SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kits use
+5VDC, high current light strips. They are
not compatible with aftermarket accessory power
supplies and are not meant to hook into a game's circuit boards. This SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kit
includes its own power transformer, which automatically switches on and off with the game's
This is a high-power mod that uses 100VAC - 240VAC. Please follow the install instructions
and be sure to UNPLUG YOUR GAME before doing anything else.
THE POWER CONNECTION FOR THIS TYPE OF LIGHT KIT IS
IN THE BACKBOX. IT IS NOT INSIDE THE CABINET OF THE GAME. THERE IS NO REASON TO LIFT THE PLAYFIELD OR EVEN OPEN THE COIN
DOOR WHEN INSTALLING THIS TYPE OF LIGHT KIT.
|On these SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kits, the power connections are different from one
another depending on if you have a North America game or an international game. The
international games do not include a high-power Bill Validator connection like the North
America games, so they have to get their power directly from the game's power switch. You will
only receive one AC power cable with each Deluxe SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kit purchased. Orders
placed from the US and Canada will receive the North America power cable and all other
countries will receive the international power cable. If you need a power cable from a
different region than where you are ordering from, please contact me at my support e-mail before placing your order to explain the
situation. In both cases, the Speaker Light Kit is still automatically switched on and off when
the game switch is turned on or off. You can find the...
NORTH AMERICA POWER CONNECTION INSTRUCTIONS
INTERNATIONAL POWER CONNECTION INSTRUCTIONS
Then come back here for some tips before the light frame installation.
Here are some tips and things to know
before beginning the light frame install:
IF you are installing "lower panel" designs, that mount on the
inside of the lower part of the speaker panel, you will have to REMOVE the clear spacer
slats that are on the back lower part of the panel (on top of the hinges) from the
factory. This is done so the design can take the place of the spacer
slats thickness. If the spacer slats are not removed with the lower panel designs
installed, the mount will be too thick and your speaker panel will not close properly. The
top clear spacer slats should stay in place. The designs are intended to be used with the black
side facing out (but you can do what you want) and these can be mounted either in front of the
speaker foam or behind the speaker foam. I prefer the designs behind it as it gives them a more
obscured, destroyed, burnt look. If you are not using the lower panel designs leave
all four of the clear spacer slats in place on the panel as they originally were.
For pictures and more information on the Lower
Panel Designs, please CLICK HERE.
Speaking of speaker foam.....I recommend using it with these light kits.
On the left side, you can see what the typical LE type install would look like without the
foam. On the right side is the same speaker setup with the speaker foam (and plastic canvas)
installed. You see much more of the flame effect with the foam (and plastic canvas) in place. I
do sell the speaker foam, but it should have been included with all pro and premium SPIKE 2
games (and some LE games). The left side with the 5.25" speaker showing looks fine, but I
prefer the right. This is just a judgment call on which you prefer and how you like things.
Speaking of PLASTIC CANVAS.....I HIGHLY
SUGGEST USING IT if you are using the speaker foam. I HIGHLY recommend
AGAINST USING IT if you are NOT using the speaker foam. The plastic canvas helps to spread
the light from the walls and bottom of the light frames to the middle area where there are no
light strips. This greatly increases the flame effect.
As far as my recommendations go, the top of the list is makeing sure you are using the
speaker foam if you are using the factory 4" speaker plates. No one wants to see those
off-center speaker holes with the stupid looking bars running through them. If you are
determined to not use the foam AND use 4" speakers.....buy a set of my 4" SPIKE 2 speaker
plates. At least they center the 4" speaker hole in the middle of the grill area and have the
crappy looking bars removed from the speaker holes. They are available on the accessories page.
Here are some other things you should be aware of before moving on to the frame
The light frames will be positioned the same as in the install instructions, with the thin wall
of the frame and magnet-backed light strip toward the LCD screen BUT, with the Flaimin'
Frames the light strip connection end will be coming out of the top, outer corner of the frames
instead of how they are pictured in the frame installation PDF.
Make sure the speaker panel is pushed in toward the backbox when you are tightening down the
bottom hex posts. This is also mentioned in the frame install PDF as it is very important
when it comes to ensuring the speaker panel will close as smoothly as
possible after the installation.
Be mindful when putting down the magnet-backed light strips on the frame after you have put
in the screws to hold the LCD screen in place. There are gaps in the magnets where the screw
heads should go. It may help to put a slight bend between the 2 bulbs where the screw heads
will land. No matter what is done, the screw heads will bump the light strip out a bit, but
with some care, you can make sure the magnets on both sides of the screws are down against the
light frames instead of ramping off of them and causing a bigger gap than is needed. A
little bit of care when putting the magnets down on the frames may prevent having to remove the
speaker plates and tap them down again to have them look as they should.
If the plastic canvas is used with the foam, as recommended, I suggest you mount it on top
of the hex posts after the light frames are in place. With the plastic canvas in the
rear of the lit area, it does just as good of a job at spreading the light as it would directly
behind the foam, but its grid pattern is less visible in the back.
If you have speakers that have tweeters that protrude out and are pressing into
the plastic canvas when it is mounted in the rear or are having speaker foam sagging issues
(which has never been a reported issue), you can mount the plastic canvas directly behind the
Also, if the plastic canvas is mounted in the back, that will shorten the amount of
thread length that each of the hex posts has extending out when the speaker plates
are put on them. This may not be an issue, but you may find it hard to get the speaker wire
management clip, a washer and the nut on the bottom inner posts. If that is the case, take off
the washer and/or the wire management clip.
I would also like to mention, there is no need to tighten the nuts to hold the speaker
plates on to any real degree. It IS important to get the hex posts down firmly. Especially on
the bottom where they are holding the speaker panel hinges in place. Having said that, there is
no reason to go extreme on that either. Get the posts down tight, but do not over-tighten
As for the nuts to hold the speaker plates in place, as long as the speaker plates are not
rattling or sliding back and forth....that is all the tighter the nuts need to be. They are
nylon insert nuts on a nylon threaded post. They are not going to vibrate or work loose. Also,
think about the orientation of the speaker panel at any given time. These nuts are NEVER
holding the weight of the speakers and speaker plates. Either the panel is up and the nuts are
just keeping the plates from sliding off of the threaded posts, or the panel is down and
gravity is holding them on. You close the panel and fold the head down...again, gravity is
holding them on. Then you tip the game back for transport and the panel is in its normal
playing position. So in no scenario are the speaker plates hanging down with the nuts
needing to support their weight.
The nylon posts were not selected as cost-saving measure, as they cost MORE than the
metal ones. I also know the metals ones have even a bigger issue with the threaded tops of them
being twisted off when nuts are over-tightened on them. The nylon ones will often just strip
instead of breaking off. As it is, the nylon was needed as the posts can come in contact
with the front of the light strips and having metal posts going across some of those components
is not good. Do not over-tighten them or the nuts on top of them and they will not be
For the last of the tips, I would like to explain something that may or may not need to be
done, but in any case, it's best to check and see how your game looks. After any type 11, 12 or
14 SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kit install you may notice the speaker panel being a bit stiffer to
close. This is pretty normal, but it does vary from game to game and can be made worse or
better by various factors.
The most important step was already mentioned and will be mentioned again in the light frame
install pdf. Make sure you have the panel pushed in toward the backbox when tightening the
bottom hex posts. That is the number one thing to help ensure the panel closes as smoothly as
The cause of the panel being stiffer to close is due to the light kit mount adding thickness
behind the panel. Using the plastic canvas adds to this. Stern also uses different nuts on the
hinges than they originally did with the earlier SPIKE 2 games. In any case, the issue is with
the backbox/speaker panel hinge nuts rubbing on the bottom/back of the speaker plates when the
panel is being closed. To lessen this rub...take a look at your nuts. You should loosen or
tighten them a tweak as needed to MAKE SURE A FLAT PART OF THE NUT IS RUNNING ALONG
WITH THE BACK OF THE SPEAKER PLATES. This will allow the speaker plate to more easily
slide over the flat side of the hex nuts instead of catching one of the nut's points and
causing more resistance.
This is not a Flamin Frames specific issue. It is something that has always been there with
some games and the introduction of the plastic canvas and Stern changing from Keps
nuts to thicker nylon insert nuts has made it more noticeable. As it is, it's just the way it
is. It's not an issue and if the light kit is installed correctly and the nuts adjusted as
suggested your panel will close fine, just with a bit more closing pressure needed.
Here are the other electronic connections that you will have to make. The included
Y-Splitter is ONLY used if you want to use one of the two controllers' output wires.
This would give a more symmetrical look as it would then have the same flaming
patterns on both frames (but mirrored).
|The rest of the connections are pretty straightforward and clearly shown and
described in the picture above.
The NORTH AMERICA power connection
instuctions are HERE.
The INTERNATIONAL power connection
instructions are HERE.
I will add a suggestion, to place the included power transformer on the floor of the backbox
with it slid as far forward toward the back of the LCD screen as it can go. This should make it so
that if the head is folded down, the power transformer doesn't have any room to shift forward.
Then if the game is being wrapped or strapped and stood up to move, the power transformer is
back to sitting on the backbox floor in its natural position. There is also enough cable length to
put the power transformer in the bottom of the cabinet if one would choose to, but I like the
idea of keeping everything in the back box so fewer cables run between the backbox and cabinet.
Other simple things to mention are, the connections to the light strips, extension cables and
controller are made so they can only be plugged in the correct direction. When you give them a
look you can see how they snap together. There is a small friction ramp that slides
into a notch on the top of the other connector. When these are connected, the 3
pins in one side are meant to slide into the 3 holes on the other. If you feel you have to use
much force to get these connections to lock together, please make sure you have not bent any of the
pins down inside of the connector.
The power transformer is non polarized so it does not matter how the AC power cable is plugged
After everything is mounted and connected you will now need to attach the support cables back to
the speaker panel. Get some help or find something to support the speaker panel as you attach the
support cables, washers and nuts to the top inner nylon studs. Again, make sure the nuts are
threading on straight and you DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THEM. Also, make sure the support cables are
positioned toward the backbox when they are tightened so that when the speaker panel is folded
down, it is supported by the cables in a natural position. Then put the translite back in place,
close and lock the speaker panel, plug the game back in and turn it on. The Flamin'
Frames kit should come on and "ignite" in a few seconds. Enjoy.
If you have any questions or issues, feel free to contact me at my support e-mail.
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